Day 41: Aug 12 Prince Edward Island

Prince Edward Island is another of the Atlantic provinces. It is the smallest province by land area and population. Its primary industry is farming. It’s capital is Charlottetown.

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From the journal: “Got up not too early enroute to the ferry to PEI, at Pictou. Got there about 10:30 and the ferry left at 11:20. No fee onto the Island. We will see what it costs to leave PEI. Watched an eagle eat what looked like to be a dead crow from the deck of the ferry waiting for it to leave. Beautiful weather. Not much wind. We could stay outside on the deck. Had poutine again. Not as good as in Quebec, but it was the ferry.”

“Got to PEI 1 ½ hours later and started our trek going east first. Amazing. These huge properties either growing corn or potatoes – mostly potatoes slanting down towards the ocean. The houses were white washed. Small communities along the shore. A blue heron flew across the highway as we were driving by. I feel like Marcel is getting anxious. Feel like we are rushing through PEI. We’re not stopping to see anything. Wish we could stop to see the points with the lighthouses. Not able to cook anything as I might dirty a dish and use some water and use the tank. Still carrying food that I could have/ should have used up.”

“We stopped for the night at Campbell’s Cove Campground. Walked on the red sand beach and picked up some cool green coloured rocks. Put our feet in the water. Warmer than I thought it was going to be. Came back for beer and dinner. Leftover ham and pizza. Tomorrow onward to Charlottetown. “

Day 40: Aug 11 Nova Scotia

From Cheryl’s journal: “Left at 7:30 to get on the road. Taking the #1 most of the way. Found the north side to be more lush green farm properties. Small communities on the sea. Went past Cornwallis where Marcel did his basic training. Annapolis Royal has a tidal generated power station. This area has much Acadian influence. Signs with french and many French flags. Went up into the Bay of Fundy and into the Minas Basin and the water started to turn reddish brown. In Cobequid Bay it was all reddish brown. The side of the rivers were this clay like reddish dirt and the water in the rivers were the same. Stayed in Maitland for the night.”

Sadly we have no photos Maitland to share!

Day 39: Aug 10 Nova Scotia

Cape Sable Island is a small island at the southernmost tip of the Nova Scotia peninsula. It’s largest community is Clark’s Harbour. It is connected to the mainland by a causeway.

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From Cheryl’s journal: “Got up and got lots of clothes on. Outside looked like it was going to rain. Had breakfast and got ready to go. We got into a 12 ft. Aluminum boat and were given life jackets and taken to the Island which was about a 5 minute boat ride. This was a special day – Cape Sable Island Day. One day a year they open the island to the public to tour this magical place. We walked around the island, found the only residents on the island – sheep.  This island also has the tallest lighthouse in Nova Scotia (101’) The Island is the southern-most point of Nova Scotia.” 

From the journal: “As we walked around the light and fog horn were blinking and  sounding. Cal had planned to pain on the Island for the day, but the clouds came in and thunder and lightning. It rained for about 20 minutes and then let up. Blue skies opened up and it became a nice day. We left Cal to set her stuff up and headed back towards the boat. Marcel then told me he wanted to get underway and leave. I walked back to where Cal had set up. Bought 2 of her books and she gave me 2 of her beautiful postcards. Said my goodbyes and walked back to where the boats would bring us back to the mainland. Not sure it really was mainland as there is a causeway to get off the “island”. Dave picked us up. We had showers at their place and said our goodbyes to Dave and Ollie and headed for the Walmart in Yarmouth. Discovered they had a movie theatre close by so we went and saw Hobbs & Shaw. Excellent. 2 thumbs up from Marcel.”

Yarmouth is a port town located on the Bay of Fundy in southwestern Nova Scotia. The town sits in the heart of the world’s largest lobster fishing grounds.

Day 38: Aug 9 Nova Scotia

The inhabitants of Peggy’s Cove still fish for lobster, although today the dominant industry is tourism built around the Peggys Point Lighthouse.

Swissair Flight 111 crashed just 8 kms from shore in 1998. The cove became one of the staging areas for the search and rescue response, crash recovery operation, and investigation of the crash.

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From Cheryl’s journal: “Off to Canadian Tire to hopefully find a new vent. No luck. Onward to Peggy’s Cove. Due to the rain it was a foggy day. Not able to see too much. Typical eastern/western coastal day. Cute little community. Apparently it was cruise ship day so lots of people. Peggy’s Cove Preservation Land reminded me a lot of NFLD – rocky, short shrubbage, small ponds. The rocks were slippery because of the fog. Didn’t stay too long.  Went around and through Mahone Bay. A very ritzie place. Big sail boats and Victorian type houses.” 

Lunenburg is a port town situated on the South Shore of Nova Scotia. It’s main industry is the Atlantic Fishery, whose future is now uncertain.

It flourished in the 1800s, and much of it’s historic architecture dates from that period.

The Bluenose–the ship on our dime–was also built in Lunenburg.

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“Lunenburg was quite nice. Found the waterfront area and stayed for lunch at the Fishermans. It was attached to a museum that had a display of the cod fishery. Had the lobster taco $27. Nothing to write home about. I think it was the coleslaw, pretty bland. Made our way to Clarke’s Harbour after walking on the boardwalk. They had a festival going on, so a festive feeling was in the air. Could have stayed longer in Lunenberg.”

Clark’s Harbour is on Cape Sable Island, in southwestern Nova Scotia.

The main industry is lobster fishing, and the town is the birthplace of the Cape Islander fishing boat.

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From the journal: “Found Cal and Dave’s home in Clarke’s Harbour. Centreville South Side Road. A nice place where you could see the ocean from two sides (when the fog wasn’t there). Ollie, their dog, was a little upset we had invaded his territory, but he tolerated us. Went for a walk on the beach. Couldn’t see much due to the fog. But it was nice to be near the ocean with waves breaking.  Had beer and pizza for dinner. Went to bed about 9 as we were going over to Cape Sable Island in the morning.”

Day 37: Aug 8 Nova Scotia

Halifax, population of 403,000 as of 2016, is well known for its harbor area. The city is a major economic center in Atlantic Canada.

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From Cheryl’s journal: “Got up and had a shower. We left the campground around 8:30 and headed to the Halifax Walmart.”

“Found it was close to the Halifax shopping Centre. My purse had broken so I went over to find a new one. Once that was taken care of, we headed for the bus stop right next door and took the #2 down to the lower waterfront street. There was a boardwalk the full length with shops, restaurants and museums and where the cruise ship docks. We had a chance to sail on a tall ship. The wind was perfect. Marcel didn’t think we had time. $40 each for 1 ½ hours. I wish! We had a large piece of pizza for lunch thinking we would save money for dinner. Had an ice cream cone/bowl. Walked the length of the boardwalk and visited many shops. Did lots of gift shopping for those back at home. Had a beer, local “tall ships” amber and a serving of cauliflower wings, yummy! Marcel had enough. He wanted to go back to the motor home. I did buy a hoodie as the weather wasn’t that warm today and I was wearing shorts. The rain held off until we got home and then it rained hard till about 11:30. Went over to the food court for dinner. Not exactly what I was thinking of doing for dinner in Halifax. Oh well, wasn’t very hungry anyways. Slept well. Just a few minor water spots from all that rain.”

Day 35-36: Aug 6-7 Nova Scotia

From the journal: “As we pulled out of our site, I asked Marcel if he had done a walkabout and he said yes. So I got in to drive away and our neighbour was standing there yelling at us. I got out and we forgot to unplug our electricity. Whew! Good thing for good people. We get going and Marcel is navigating. He put Halifax on the GPS and she took us in the wrong direction. We got back onto the scenic route and still couldn’t stay on the road we wanted. Marcel had enough so I got in the passenger seat and guided him. Too funny! Made our way to Sherbrooke and got groceries. Thought it was bigger than it was. Although we didn’t go right downtown.” 

“Stopped at a Provincial day park for lunch. On to Spry Bay where we found a campground and shower. Marcel cooked dinner for us and another lazy night.”

From the journal: “Aug 7 Woke up to leave and found that one of our headlights was cracked. Think either a bird or a rock hit it. Looked for the closest Canadian Tire and luckily only 10km from where we wanted to stay. Got the light and went to the campground via the “residential” route. Our GPS is set for the shortest route, not the quickest. A lot of times throughout our journey we found ourselves going through residential areas instead of taking the highway to our location.

Had a very hard time taking the light out. Finally got it out and then realized we had the wrong headlight. Back to Canadian Tire. We took the frame with us and found the right one. Back to the campground after stopping at Wendy’s for lunch. No problems once we had the right size. We bought 2, just in case.

Took a walk down to the beach area and found the trail was connected up to the Canada Trail. Hung around the camper for the rest of the day.”

Day 33-34: Aug 4-5 Nova Scotia

From Cheryl’s journal: “Woke up to a sprinkle of rain and a nice sun rise. Our vent panel had almost fallen off. The pin came out. Looking for a Canadian Tire. Looks Like Port Hawkesbury is the closest, 80km away. Marcel was up at 6:00. We will be there way before the store is open. Not so much traffic on the road this early. Got to town about 8:30. I thought it was Saturday, apparently it’s Sunday. It’s not open until 11:00. Went to Tim Hortons, always a Timmies close by. These Easterners love their Timmies! Walked around town for a bit. Finally 11:00 went to Canadian Tire but they didn’t have the right one. Marcel duct taped it up and on we went.”

From the journal: “Aug 5 Woke up to a beautiful day. Not as windy as yesterday. Went for a short walk. Found a couple of beaches along the way. Found a nice spot to have wine later. And we did have wine! Beautiful, peaceful, serene. Wasn’t too windy, hot or cold. Just right. What’s wine without chocolate. Pulled out a chocolate bar to have with our wine.

Cell service here wasn’t too good. Tried to call home and sometimes had a signal and then it would drop off or couldn’t call at all. A lazy day.”

Day 32: Aug 3 Nova Scotia

The Cabot Trail is a 298 km scenic highway on Cape Breton Island. It completes a loop around the northern tip of the island; calling it scenic is an understatement.

It’s consistent extreme ups and downs is very difficult on vehicles, especially our old motor home.

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From Cheryl’s journal: “Start of the Cabot Trail. Went to Port Sydney just to take pictures with the largest fiddle. Stopped at a beach Black Brook. Went swimming. It had quite an undertow. Half the beach was in my bathing suit. Beautiful scenery and beaches. Tried a couple of campgrounds but all were full. Forgot about the long weekend. BC day and NS day.”

Inverness got its start with coal mining, but is currently famous for its two world class golf courses.

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From Cheryl’s journal: “Got to Inverness about 4:00 and decided to pull into an abandoned (we hoped) parking lot. Went out for dinner. Found a place that would cook us a live lobster. $80 for 2. I would have to say that it wasn’t worth it. Thought it would be cheaper. Although we got the whole lobster and not just the tail. The tail was pretty chewy. The claws were nice.”

From the journal: “Went for a walk down to the beach. They had a boardwalk that went through the dunes. It was a long sandy beach. Beautiful! On either side of the boardwalk there was a golf course too. 

Saw a moose today (second for me, first for Marcel as he was driving for the first one and missed it).”

Day 31: Aug 2 Newfoundland

From the journal: “Up early to catch the ferry at 11:45 am. Left the campsite at 6:15 and it’s 30 kms away. Want to be close to being one of the first, otherwise it could take a long time to get on and off the ferry, if it is anything like the other ferry.”

The journal: “A foggy morning from the bit of rain last night. Saw a bit of snow still on the hills. There are larger hills here on the SW side of NFLD. Trees are a bit bigger inland, maybe 12-14” round. On the coast back to 10-15’ high trees and wind swept.This area is known as “The Codroy”. Watched the ferry come in and unload. A long 7 hours – no food left when we went to get a sandwich – had a cinnamon bun and brownie. My kind of dinner.”

The journal: “Went to Sydney to stay at Walmart before we headed out on the Cabot Trail. Went shopping at Sobeys which was attached to Walmart. They had a live lobster tank.”

Day 30: Aug 1 Newfoundland

From the journal: “Woke up this morning to beautiful sunshine. Checked the engine oil and it needed a quart. As we were doing it someone drove up and asked if everything was good. Nice feeling to know there is goodness in the world. This morning at Timmie’s a guy let 3 people go ahead of him. “Just because”, he said, “he wouldn’t be a gentleman if he didn’t” – and one of them was a guy. Chivalry alive and well in NFLD. Last day on the “rock”. Sad to go . So much left to see and do. Got to Doyles by 11:00 and stayed at the magnificent Grand Codroy Rv/Tent Camping. A day of rest and relaxation. Had a shower. Lots of pressure, hot and free! What else could you ask for.”

We are camped just a few kilometers from Channel-Port-aux-Basques, from where we will have to catch the boat back to Nova Scotia in the morning.